'Bringing Larsen's Traditions into the Modern Age' by David Croizet

As a sixth-generation wine and spirit maker born in Cognac, David Croizet is steeped in the history of his home city’s most famous export. But it was the modern zeal of the Larsen brand that attracted him to join this near hundred-year-old Cognac producer ten years ago. In the next instalment of our ‘In Conversation With’ series, the celebrated Master Blender explains why tradition combined with innovation is the perfect recipe for Larsen’s success.

You were born into a family of wine and Cognac producers. Was there ever any doubt that you’d follow in their footsteps?

I could have done something different, but I didn’t want to. I have an emotional connection to making Cognac, so this is my passion, as well as my job. Growing up in and around vineyards and distilleries, I was educated every day by feeling, seeing, smelling and tasting what was around me. It’s a big part of who I am.

What attracted you to the role at Larsen?

I was very happy to become the custodian of Larsen Cognac when the opportunity arose over ten years ago. I always thought Larsen stood out in the region for its quality and also for doing things a bit differently. There is a strong root in the past and a respect for tradition, but also a modernity, a freshness and a spirit of exploration that is part of our DNA. It traces back to 1926 and the pioneering spirit of our founder, Jens Reidar Larsen.

Tell us some of the secrets of making good Cognac.

The first thing to understand is that it’s very regulated! We have Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée status. From vineyard locations to distillation and maturation protocols – there are lots of clearly defined parameters and rules that all producers must respect. But within that, there is room to create something unique, which is why you have so many different styles of spirit originating from the same part of France.

For me, the secret is absolute attention to detail. There are many decisions to make along the way - from choosing the forest where we source the French oak for our barrels, to harvesting the exact grapes for distillation from a local network of 4000 growers, to getting the final blending process just right. Every little step matters in our quest for excellence. I find it helps to be very careful with every detail and confident in your choices. And the ability to say no is very important. I never settle for second best!

How important is terroir?

I always say that the creation of a successful Cognac starts in the vineyard. Before anything else, we are growers, producers of wine. Unlike a grain-based spirit, the quality of soil in which we grow our grapes and the strength of the harvest are so important. In the Cognac region, vines grow in chalky, clay and lime heavy soil, and they flourish under the warmth of the south west Gulf Stream. It’s the perfect climate for growing exceptional quality, flavourful grapes.

How would you describe the house style of Larsen?

In a word, fruity! We use the Ugni Blanc grape variety to make a very special wine with fruitiness to the fore. As a former wine grower, I provide a very exact specification for what I’m looking for, which is a pure clear wine that is just right for the Larsen distillation process and the finished style of our Cognac. Maturation also plays a big part. Cognac is only ever aged in virgin French oak barrels, and this fine grain oak has a high density which preserves the natural fruitiness of the spirit, without adding too much tannin. Some of Larsen’s barrels are medium toasted to add beautiful layers of vanilla aroma and flavour.

What about Cognac’s most mysterious element: blending?

Blending is certainly one of the most skilful and creative parts of the process. I like to have a lot of different batches to play with! A bit like a painter with a palette or a perfume ‘nose’, this is where we experiment with different vintages and spirit styles, adding a drop here and there to perfectly create Larsen’s rich, complex and fruity spirit. There will be a lot of different ages in the mix, from 4 years old and upwards. 

Not everyone can have your background growing up in the Cognac industry. How do you ensure your skills are passed down to the next generation?

I have a team, we taste together, and they learn how to evaluate the spirit. It’s also important to have a diverse group of people, male and female, young and old, who bring something different to the process. I like to taste with others and listen to their views, because there’s always something I can learn from new colleagues.

How do you approach new product development?

I think it’s one of the most important parts of my job – taking this historic spirit, linking it to the present and making it come alive for today’s consumers. But it has to be done with no compromise to our product quality and our traditions. We can never lose our soul to a crazy idea. But our founder was an adventurer, a collaborator and a rule breaker. So innovation is part of who we are. For me, it has to start with consumers and what they will want from Larsen in the years ahead.

Are you confident about Cognac’s future?  

Very much so. We of course have to compete, but Cognac has so many natural advantages aside from its wonderful taste. No one else in the world can do what we do due to our AOC status. Cognac is appealing to today’s consumers due to its strong sustainable credentials and connection to nature. For example, our barrels are crafted here using locally sourced wood and require little in the way of transport – plus we use them in production for up to 50 years. We also benefit from the industry working closely together to protect and promote Cognac on the world stage.

And finally, what about Larsen and your personal hopes for the future?

I realise that I may not be the person blending and bottling the Cognac I’m distilling today. That will be someone else’s job! But I am always thinking about what our future consumers will want me to create. I think about my own sons and what they and their children might like to drink when the time comes. I think as people’s tastes mature, they care more about the stories that lie behind the products they drink. Since the first vines brought to France by the Romans hundreds of years ago, through to today and long into the future: people will always love the story of Cognac…and Larsen has some great stories to tell!